Termín cesty 03.07. – 05.07.2010. V roku 2010 pripadli v Čechách štátné sviatky vierozvestov Cyrila a Metoda a upálenie majstra Jána Husa na pondelok ( 5.7. ) a utorok ( 6.7. ). Čím sa víkend krásne predĺžil. Využil som to na splnenie vytúženého sna – v kľude si prehliadnúť a vyfotiť jašterice zelené „západné“ ( Lacerta bilineata ), ktoré najbližšie žijú na západe Nemecka. Podľa súčasného druhového zaradenia je iným druhom než jašterice zelené zo strednej a východnej Európy.
Podľa predpovedí mi malo priať i počasie. Vyrazil som v 06.00 hodín z M. Lázní na Norimberg a Heilbron. Prvú zastávku asi po 300 km som urobil v 10.30. Pred Heilbronom som odbočil k hradu viditeľného z diaľnice v mestečku Waldenburg. Po odbočení v dedine Kupfer som videl veľmi staré a bohužiaľ už neudržované hrázdené domy. Dnes ľutujem, že som bol lenivý a neurobil ani jednu fotku.
Myslel som si, že podobné staré domy uvidím i inde ale všetky ďalšie boli už udržiavané. Za dedinou Beltersrot som našiel pokosenú lúku s ihriskom a ohnišťom. Na okraji tiekol malý, zarastený potôčik a vedľa bolo i malé jazierko. Dúfal som, že nájdem jašterice krátkohlavé ( Lacerta agilis agilis ) a žaby, bohužial nič tam nebolo. V Beltersrotu bola pekná a veĺká reštaurácia. Kdo ale chodí do tak zastrčenej dediny? Na úvod rovno poviem, že Nemecko mi pripadá byť celkove hrozne “sterilnou” krajinou. Nie sú tam smetiská alebo podobný neporiadok, a tým pádom sa veľmi ťažko hľadajú plazy a obojživelníci. Po prejdení „horského chrbta“ som pred Waldenburg-om našiel rybník. Ryby tu chytal ukrajinec s mercedesom. Platí 200 Eur za rok za povolenku na 2 rybníky, rýb si môže odniesť koľko chce. Na brehu som nevidel ani jašterice ani žaby. Mestom Waldenburg som iba prechádzal, nebolo miesto na zaparkovanie. Fotky nemám.
Tesne pred Heilbronom sa objavili prvé vinice s ruinou hradu na kopci Weinsberg. Sú to vinice na „ostrove“, pretože daľšie vinice sú až západne Sinsheimu v Dielheimu. Vhodné klíma na pestovanie viniča vzniká stúpaním teplých prúdov po svahu. Tu som sa musel rozhodnúť či pôjdem za jaštericami zelenými na „západ“, do Bad Kreuznachu, alebo na „juh“ k Freiburgu. Po kontrole kilometrov som zistil, že na „juh“ je cesta dlhšia iba o 30 km. U Bad Kreuznachu som už bol v roku 2003. Pre „juh“ hovorilo i to, že som chcel navštíviť pohorie Schwarzwald ( Čierný les ), pramenisko Dunaja. Mesto Weinsberg ma vítalo ohromnou horúčavou a záhonmi ruží. Mesto sa asi preslávilo ich pestovaním, pretože boli všade v parkoch, na uliciach a i na hradnom opevnení, kde boli súčasťou náučného chodníku. Na opevnení hradu som videl 4 jašterice múrové ( Podarcis muralis ) a na fotke užovku hladkú ( Coronella austriaca ). Nevidel som jašterice krátkohlavé a zelené. V tomto roku som tu jedol prvýkrát čerešne. Dalšiu zastávku, ktorú som využil i na napísanie pár riadkov z cesty, som urobil na odpočívadle u Rastattu. Je to veľké parkovisko, ale ani tu som žiadne jašterice nenašiel. Pred ďalšou cestou som podľa mapy hľadal miesto pre nocovanie. Také, aby som mal kľud, vodu na kúpanie a ráno bol čo najbližšie k Breisachu, ktorý leží na juhozápadnom okraji pohoria Kaiserstuhl. Vytipoval som si slepú ulicu na brehu Rýna, ktorá viedla z dediny Weisweil. Nakoniec sa ukázalo, že to bola výborná voľba. Je tu táborisko pre vodákov s rybníkom a s bufetom na hrádzi vodnej elaktrárny. Výkúpal som sa, zjedol polovicu klobásy a šiel do bufetu. Dal som si 2x pivo Radler ( 4 dcl za 2,20 Eur za kus + 30 centov zpropitné ). Večer bolo dusno a tak teplo, že som dlho nevedel zaspať. O pol jednej v noci začala hrozná búrka, nepršalo veľa, ale bili hrozné hromy a blesky. Aj som sa bál.
Informácie o vzniku pohoria Kaiserstuhl z tabule umiestnenej na náučnom chodníku k zrúcanine hradu Limburg na kopci Limberg 272 m.n.m.
Dnešný Kaiserstuhl je z väčšej časti zbytkom vulkanického pohoria. V zóne tiahnúcej sa od Stredozemného mora až k severnej Európe, kde bola zemská kôra veľmi tenká, sa počala tvoriť pred 60 miliónmi rokov Horná rýnská priehlbina. Pás zemskej kôry dlhý 250 km a široký 40 km sa utrhol a prepadol do hĺbky. Priehlbina sa potom začala plnit usadeninami a ku koncu doby ľadovej sa naplnila štrkom z Rýna a jeho prítokov. Zhruba pred 18 – 13 miliónmi rokov sa prasklinami začala predierať na zemský povrch bazaltová magma. V porovnaní ostatnými výbuchmi sopiek bol tento veľmi slabý s prúdy lávy nepresiahli dĺžku 1 km a hrúbku 10 m. Časť magmatu ztuhla už pred dosiahnutím zemského povrchu ( napríklad u Badbergu ). Magma tuhla v úzkých komínoch. Ale láva, ktorá obsahovala plyny, sa dostávala na povrch výbuchmi. Takto vymrštené horniny sa uložili buď ako zhluky hornín ( aglomeráty ) alebo ako tufy – zhluky prachu a častíc veľkosti zrniek. Voľne vytekajúca láva ztuhla v lávovom prúde.
Aglomeráty, tufy a lávové prúdy sú viditeľné na Limbergu vo výraznych uskupeniach hneď nad sebou. Vedľa tufu sú tu i usadeniny zo sladkovodného jazera z obdobia treťohôr ( terciéru ). Za 15 miliónov rokov vulkán zmenil svoju podobu rozpadom na jednotlivé časti. Erózia ju narušila a nenávratne premiestnila drobne kamene. Pieskové vetry z doby ľadovej všetko pokryli vysokou vrstvou nánosov. To všetko dohromady znemožňuje rekonštrukciu pôvodného tvaru vulkánu. Vietor, dážď, mráz a slnko obrúsili pohorie do dnešnej podoby. Vulkán bol pokrytý 30 cm vrstvou spraše, ktorá je veľmi úrodná. Najstaršie nálezy ľudského osídlenia sú z mladšej doby kamennej. Za frankskej ríše sa tu usadili vinári.
Vstával som v šesť hodín. Fúkal studený vietor a bolo zamračené. Na hrádzi chytali dvaja rybáry dravce. Nevidel som ich nič chytit. Urobil som si čaj a polievku na poslednom plyne do variča. Za priehradou som videl plávať jedného kapra, cca 1,5 kg, a v kanále z Rýna veľkého jalca hlavatého ( asi 1,2 kg ). Cestou na ruiny hradu v Limbachu som si dal opäť čerešne. Z diaľky som videl niečo ako smetisko, tak som tam odbočil. Bola to ale iba firma na drtenie starého asfaltu a betónu. Na druhej strane cesty boli súkromné
rybníky s upraveným okolím. Ďalej bola zarastená divočina. Počul som kvákať žaby ale i keď bola mokrá tráva a ráno, žiadnu som nevidel skákať na brehu. Do Limbachu bola obchádza preto som tam dorazil až o desiatej hodine. Medzitým sa našťastie vyjasnilo a bolo teplo. Na Rýnu som chvíľu pozoroval jazdit mladíka na vodných lyžiach. Prešiel som sa pešo až na cestný most a z neho som videl dva jalce hlavaté ( 30 cm ). Stretol som tu i traktor s prívesom, na ktorom krojovaní sedliaci spievali ľudové pesničky. Pri okraji asfaltovej cesty som videl jednu samičku jašterice krátkohlavej ( Lacerta agilis ). Pri stúpaní k ruine hradu som žiadne zvieratká (mimo psa) nevidel. Na vrchole som ale našiel sedieť na lavičke zamilovaný pár ( cca 35-40 rokov ). A ako zákon schválnosti káže neďaleko nich som zahliadol prvú jaštericu zelenú ( Lacerta bilineata ).
Nechcel som ich rušiť, tak som sa na ňu podíval, raz skúsil chytiť a šiel ďalej. Na vrchole kopca som potom ešte videl päť jašteríc zelených. Nechytil som z nich ani jednu. Cestou dolu vo viniciach som žiadne jašterice nevidel. Okolo poludnia, ešte za horúcého slnečného počasia, som zamieril k najvyššiemu vrcholu pohoria – Tötenkopf 557 m.n.m., s televíznou vežou. Čakal som tam parkovisko a výletnú kaviareň, je tam ale iba oplotená veža. Napotvoru, keď som prišiel na parkovisko na okraji lesa, zatiahlo sa. Celou cestou bolo zamračené a ešte na 20 minút silne zapršalo. To už som bol na vrchole a čakal pod stromami na koniec dažďa. Cestou dolu som stretol pána Maikla z Freiburgu na motorke. Po rozmočenom, bahnitom chodníku nemohol vytlačiť motorku. Pomohol som mu, za čo ma ponúkol vínom Müller Thurgau z tejto oblasti – bolo veľmi dobré. Dolu som nešiel po asfaltke, ako hore, ale lesnou cestou. Po vyjdení z lesa som naraz nevedel kde som! Po prvom úľaku a zorientovaní sa, som zistil, že som o jeden hrebeň južnejšie než som vstúpil do lesa. K miestu, kde som tušil mať autu, som sa vybral po okrajoch viníc. Bolo stále zamračené ale ukazovalo sa, že čo chvíľa vysvitne slniečko. Tak sa i stalo. Dlho som žiadne jašterice nenašiel. Až som došiel bližšie k lesu ( lesy sú iba na vrcholoch, pod nimu sú všade vinice ) a na jednom viac zarastenom sprašnom svahu konečne objavil plno malých jašteríc zelených ( Lacerta bilineata ). Miesto je na svahu severo-východne dediny Bickensohl. Chytil som ich čo som mohol a vyfotil. Bol tam i jeden samec jašterice krátkohlavej ( Lacerta agilis ). Po príchode k autu som si opäť uvaril polievku a kafe a tešil sa z úspešného lovu.
Naraz som zahliadol samičku jašterice zelenej ( Lacerta bilineata ) ako si to mašíruje ku mne a je úplne zaujatá lovom. Chodil som za ňou asi na 2 metre a pozoroval ako sa rýchlo otáča v tráve a snaží sa niečo uloviť. I keď ma videla a držala vzdialenosť, tak v momente, keď zahliadla jedlo, otočila sa a prenasledovala korisť bez ohľadu na mňa. Nakoniec som ju chytil a vyfotil. Večer ma čakalo nové dilema – kam ďalej? Či ešte ostať a podívať sa na holé kopce severne dediny Vogstburg, ktoré som zahliadol od televíznej veže alebo sa vybrať do Schwarzwaldu? Rozhodol som sa ostať ale nocľah nájsť v blízkosti týchto kopcov. Prvá cesta ma zaviedla do „Lilientalu“, ale bolo to špatne. Je tu iba hotel v zatienenom, chladnejšom údolí. Druhá, správna cesta, viedla z Bötzingenu do Oberbergenu. Na kopce, ktoré som videl z TV veže som narazil u Alt Vogtsburgu. Ešte pred zotmením som sa tam rýchlo išiel podívať, bolo 19 hodín. Podľa predpokladu som takto pozde už plazy nenašiel. Nebolo tu kde spať, dedina bola príliž blízko a na kopec bolo z každej strany vidieť. Znovu som sa rozhodoval , kam ďalej? Vyrazil som do Schelingenu, odkiaľ bolo podľa mapy najbližšie na holé kopce a tušil som i vodu v údolí pod nimi. Potok som i našiel a nabral vodu 
do PET fliaš. Na kopci som sa zašil medzi vinice, umyl sa a vybral dve kliešťatá z tela. Jedno veľké nacucané a jedno malé. V aute som pred spaním naladil výbornu stanicu, kde až do polnoci hrali príjemné francúzské a nemecké melódie. Boli tak príjemné, že sa mi ani nechcelo spať, chcel som ich stále počúvať. Spánok bol nakoniec silnejší. Tešil som sa na druhý deň v nádeji, že od rána bude slnečno a vstanem najskôr o siedmej. Chcel som doobeda ešte raz prejsť kopce. Ďalším dôvodom zrušenia cesty do Schwarzwaldu bol i fakt, že mi dochádzala nafta. Ešte včera v kempu som mal polku nádrže ale dnešným popochádzaním mi zostalo málo nad rezervu. Ako zvláštnosť uvádzam, že vo dvoch dvoroch som videl vonku banánovníky a na jednom figovník ( strom ). Nemajú tu oplotené záhrady. Nikoho som pritom nevidel načierno trhať čerešne, mimo mňa. Sedliaci v nedeľu ráno zbierali čerešne, ktoré potom predávali u cesty a cudzí nemci ich vzorne kupovali. Buď tu majú všetci dosť peňazí alebo ctia súkromný majetok. Najskvôr asi budú platit obe pravidlá súčasne. Miesto o siedmej ma ráno v 5.30 vzbudil hukot traktorov. Ledva svitalo a už osekávali strojovo prerastený vinič. Našťastie ani jeden nekosil u mňa ale i tak som vstal. Deň predtým ( v nedeľu ) tu pracovali pritom do deviatej večer! V noci bolo zamračené ale nepršalo. V diaľke opäť blýskalo a hrmelo. Slniečko vyšlo v 6.15. Vybral som sa po hrebeni holých pastvín, kde vedie náučná cesta s tabuľami. Cestou som videl v tráve párik jašteríc zelených ( Lacerta bilineata ). Pol hodiny som ich naháňal ale nechytil. Lietalo tu veľa motýľov bielo-čiernej farby. Na jednej z tabuľ uvádzali ako vzácneho motýľa okáča medyňkového ( Hipparchia fagi ). Na okrajoch „lesa“ boli na stromoch umiestnené varovné tabule, aby sa ľudia chovali v lese ticho a nerušili srnky, ktoré sa práve starajú o mláďata. Ja som mimo kání a jastrabov žiadne zvieratá nevidel. Ani prejdené na ceste. K obedu som sa zbalil a vyrazil domov s tým, že Schwarzwald navštívím inokedy. Myslím, že je tak zaujímavý, že si zasluhuje samostatnúvýpravu.
Poslednú jaštericu – samca jašterice krátkohlavej ( Lacerta agilis ) som našiel na parkovisku pred Norimberkom. Spotreboval som 150 litrov nafty.
Záver k výskytu jašterice Lacerta bilineata: V tejto oblasti nie sú vzácnosťou. Hustejšia populácia je iba v miestach bližšie k lesu a s vyššou čerstvou trávou, kde hlavne mladé jedince, radi lovia potravu.
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